There are all different types of hair cutting scissors available to you. From your everyday cutting scissors to your thinning shears, as a hair stylist you have a lot to keep up with ! Don't worry! That's what we're here for, to talk scissors. Let's take a deeper dive into the different hair cutting scissors available and how to use them properly!
Blades and Edges
Different scissors will have different types of blades, or edges. If you know how to use the different blades correctly it can make a world of difference in your cutting journey.
- Convex Edge- A convex edge is known for being the sharpest edge you can get on a pair of scissors and is a must for the experienced hairdresser. The blade itself is curved and then comes to the sharpest, finest edge. This very fine edge is perfect for advanced cutting techniques such as slide cutting and slicing. The fine edge is designed to push the hair strands to a razor sharp point. The convex edge is quite the sensitive edge because it is so fine. It is not recommended for blunt cutting. Because this edge is so fine it is harder to sharpen into a pair of scissors and also needs a very strong, quality steel to help hold the sharp edge. It takes a master bladesmith to get it just right! This means that haircutting scissors with a convex edge are often more expensive.
- Semi Convex Edge- This edge is still sharp but the edge of it is not as fine as the convex edge. This means that it is more versatile and also more common, and affordable. The semi convex edge is great for texturizing techniques such as point cutting but also perfect for blunt cutting as well. This edge makes a great all rounder.
- Beveled Edge- The beveled edge is wider. The blade itself is more straight and comes to a wider edge. This edge helps to hold hair in place better and is great for blunt cutting and barbering techniques such as scissor over comb. This edge is quite strong and can work really hard.
Thinning shears are a huge part of any hairdresser's day to day life. Hair thinning shears have one blade that's made of teeth. A pair of thinning shears will have anywhere between 20-40 teeth. These teeth help to remove weight from a haircut, instead of cutting length. The more teeth you have the more hair will be removed.
If you know the right way to use hair thinning scissors they can quickly become one of your favorite pairs of shears. They can do so much more than thin hair and remove weight. They can be used to blend hair, soften lines and add texture. Here are some quick tips and tricks to make sure you use thinning shears correctly!
- Blending- Blending hair with thinning scissors can be done on most hair types, even finer hair. It is best done at the end of a haircut on dry hair. If you have finished a cut and find that your layers are too blunt or you have left behind some heavy cutting lines, don't worry your hair thinning shears can help. They are also great for blending fades. To fade heavy cutting lines use hair thinning scissors to just dust the ends of the hair. The teeth help to break up any heavy lines you have left behind.
- Removing Weight- To remove weight properly using thinning shears there are a few rules to remember. It is best to do on dry hair, as wet hair will stick together and you will remove more hair. To remove weight we use our hair thinning scissors on the interior of the hair. It is important to remember to always cut from the mid shaft to end of the hair. If you use thinning shears too close to the scalp you may end up with frizzy hair or cut hair sticking straight up. If your client has very thick hair you can open and close your thinning shears multiple times from mid shaft to end to remove excess weight. It is not recommended to use this technique on very thin hair or fine hair.
- Adding texture- To add texture with your thinning shears you can use them like you would regular scissors. Thinning shears can be used for point cutting and even slide cutting to add more texture. Use thinning shears on dry hair to prevent over thinning.
Similar to thinning shears this cutting scissor has one straight blade and one blade with teeth. These teeth however are fewer teeth and wider teeth. They can range in size from 7- 20 Teeth. They are better for chunky texture and thicker hair.
- Removing weight- These can be used similarly to how you use hair thinning scissors. Always use thinning shears on dry hair to prevent from removing too much hair. They are best used on thick or curly hair. Because the teeth are wider apart they are less likely to cause as much frizz to curly hair as your thinning shear might.
- Adding texture- Texturizing shears are known for giving visible texture... and lots of it ! The wider teeth mean that larger pieces or chunks of hair are being removed. These cutting shears are a great tool for cutting shorter hair or clients that love a pixie cut or mens cut. Using these on short hair will give the top of the haircut that very chunky textured look. They can also be used on longer hair to give a shaggier, wispier finish.
Not all shears are created equal!
By now you have learned even more about how to use your hair shears correctly! Of course if you have any more questions, we are always here for you !