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Texture! It is every hairdresser's favorite word. Rarely do we do a consultation and not mention adding some form of texture or movement to our clients haircut. Often we default to using our thinning scissors for this, but what about our regular hair cutting shears? They are a great tool to use for texturizing and if you are looking for some tips and tricks to use your regular shears, you have come to the right place!
Before we dive into how to texturize we need to know just a bit about texture. Texturizing hair involves removing excess weight from the haircut, softening any hard lines and blending layers or other lines. A textured haircut will have lighter, wispier ends that seem to move easier. Texture can also help us add volume and lift at the root area. Most texturizing techniques are usually done on dry hair, at the end of the haircut so you can see where the weight removal needs to happen.
Point cutting is a very popular technique used to create texture in a haircut. It is probably one of the most popular techniques due to its versatility. Because point cutting can be done in different ways to achieve different results it can be done on almost any hair type.
Point cutting can be done on wet hair to remove length and prevent hard blunt lines and to give the ends of the hair a more shattered look. This form of texturizing can be done on any type of hair. To get this look, section the hair however you plan on cutting it. We recommend using either a 5.5 inch or 6 inch shear for this technique. Instead of blunt cutting your section of hair use the tip of your straight shear to cut into the hair, creating points. Cutting hair this way will still keep your sections and lines straight, but without a hard, blunt line.
You can use point cutting on dry hair to soften blunt tips and remove weight from the mid lengths to ends of the hair. You can use any length hair cutting shear to do this, it is whatever is most comfortable for you. Once hair is dry you can lift a section of hair up and cut straight into the ends. The deeper you cut the more weight removal you will get. To lightly soften ends keep your scissors as straight as possible and cut directly into the hair. This technique can be done on any hair type but is a perfect texturizing technique for even fine hair. If you are wanting a more dramatic texture you can cut into the hair in large points, which will remove more hair and create a more dramatic texture. A more dramatic texture is best done on thick hair.
Slide cutting is a great technique for texturizing, blending and weight removal. It can be used on wet hair to remove length, like creating face framing layers, or on dry hair to soften layers and get those beautiful wispy ends. This technique is very popular when cutting extensions as it blends any hard lines. You can slide cut longer hair to add texture as well as shorter hair. A slide cut can be done on really thick hair, curly hair and even finer hair.
For slide cutting we recommend using a slider, or slide cutting scissors. Slide cutting scissors are made with the best steel so they stay razor sharp. Having super sharp scissors is a must for this technique. Dull scissors can pull hair and cause damage, especially when done on dry hair. You can use normal scissors or straight bladed shears, but they should be very sharp!
Slide cutting is done by sliding your scissors down the hair shaft, in the direction the hair grows, with your scissors open. You ever so slightly open and close your blades, never full closing them as that will just remove hair. If doing this on wet hair to remove length, you may find that pushing down a little harder as you slide will help remove length easier. When using this technique on dry hair it is best to be as light handed as possible.
Slide cutting is also a great technique for adding more volume or even just helping hair to fall the way you need it to. You can add volume by lifting a section of hair and sliding from the interior out. This leaves some shorter hairs closer to the head which will help give lift to the hair. If you use slide cutting on short hair and follow the growth pattern of the hair it can be helpful in getting hair to lie smoother and flatter to the head.
Slice cutting is similar to point cutting. It can be done on wet or dry hair, though dry hair is most preferred. Being able to see where the hair needs weight removal is very important. We recommend using a 5.5 inch or 6 inch pair of scissors to achieve this.
To slice cut hair pull a section of hair up and from a few centimeters into the interior, slice the hair going out towards the end. It is almost like point cutting or slide cutting in reverse! This technique will add maximum texture to any cut. If a client has very coarse hair this technique may be more comfortable for them if done on wet hair. Taking small slices adds movement but won't leave holes in the haircut.
This technique will help create volume and lift. It is great for adding texture and left to longer hair styles where you want to get lift in the front of the hair. This is best done on dry hair and with a 5.5 or 6 inch pair of shears. Weaving should only be done on thicker hair.
Usually this technique is done on the top of the head. So if you are standing in front of your client take a small section and pull it straight towards you. With your scissors open, weave the bottom blade of your scissors through the hair as if you are using a tail comb to create highlights. From the mid shaft of the hair- gently open and close your scissors ( never fully ) and push the hair back towards the scalp, the opposite direction of the hair growth. It will look almost as if you are back combing the hair with your scissors.
Twist cutting is a great technique for curly hair. It helps work with the natural direction of the curl. It can be done on straight hair as well but it is important not to remove too much hair or it will leave the hair looking choppy. This technique can be done on wet or dry hair. It is best not to do this technique on fine hair as it will leave holes or choppy ends.
To texturize hair with twist cutting take a small section of hair and twist it around. With your scissor blades open lightly cut into the hair from the mid lengths down.
We know this article is all about using haircutting shears for texturizing but we can't talk about texturizing without mentioning these scissors.
Hair thinning scissors or shears and texturizing shears are both designed exactly for these purposes, for hair thinning and to add texture. Thinning scissors have anywhere from 20-40 smaller teeth to remove a lot of weight and give a thinning effect. Texturizing shears have wider teeth anywhere from 7- 14 teeth. These wide set teeth give a more chunky texture effect, hence why they are sometimes known as chunking shears.
These scissors are not best on every type of hair. That is why we recommend knowing how to use your haircutting shears to create texture. Knowing how to use your haircutting scissors will give you more options to texturize all hair types. Thinning scissors can be used on thick hair or thin hair, however it is easy to remove too much hair when used on thinner hair. Texturizing shears should never be used on fine or thin hair as it can leave holes in your hair cut.
is one of the best parts of cutting hair! It is a great way to personalize every haircut and keep your clients coming back for more ! It is also a great way to get creative ! As there are always new techniques being introduced into the world of cutting hair, the possibilities are endless. We hope you are inspired to get out there and add more movement and texture to your next haircut
